It is always interesting to go and have a look at Rookies & Players during fashion week. These are the designers that are supposed to be the future of Swedish fashion hence why they are important to have under the radar. The trade show is divided into two. Roo kies is for the real rookies while Players is for the designers that have been around for a while and that will probably leave this specific trade show for their own fashion shows or show rooms in a season or two. What is specific for new designers is that their collections are smaller. It is hard for small designers to make full collections, it is expensive and a huge amount of work. Keeping it small is also a way to keep it together. Once the designers feel the pressure to make a “full” collection it normally starts going in several different directions before they find their signature and can get it all together with a clear profile. At Rookies & Players this season every label has a very clear profile, impressively clear to be honest. Unfortunately there is a bit too much mainstream and this is a tricky path in a country like Sweden where giants like H&M, Lindex and Kappahl can produce mainstream clothes extremely cheap. Though there is a difference between a small designer making a t-shirt with a nice print and H&M doing the same thing, most people just won’t accept the price difference so it will always be tough for the small designer. As always I like the collection from Säby. Karin is definitely getting ready for her own show though the collection still is a bit small. Matilda Wendelboe is a designer that I don´t have a previous relation too but I am very impressed and love the wide collars and the colorful garments. 
Anna Bonnevier´s exhibition is very clever but a bit like modern architecture. If you don’t know what the specific fact is (clothes made out of fabrics cut in 90 degree angles and then draped and shaped around a body) it can be harder to be overly excited about them. This is a bit what Rookies & Players is about though, a few seasons to experiment, find your signature and profile though still doing all this in a high quality way.
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